Villagers in Sumatra Bring Ancient Forest Flavors Back to the Table – South Africa Today
The women of Muaro Jambi are custodians of an ancient culinary tradition, nurturing a living food forest and garden to conserve the biodiversity that makes their dishes unique. Nurul Nazipah, one of these dedicated guardians, delights in crafting her signature dish, rempah ratus belut, using a variety of wild herbs and greens from the Sumatran forest, complemented by fresh eel from the Batang Hari River.
This flavorful dish, rich with traditional spices, was once reserved for special celebrations. For Nazipah, it showcases the forest’s bountiful resources and the potential of local, abundant food sources. “Through this dish, we spotlight local food sources still flourishing around us,” she explains.
Near the ancient Buddhist temple complex of Muaro Jambi lies the eight-village community of Paduka. Celebrated for their dedication to preserving authentic recipes, the women of Paduka turn to the bas-reliefs of Borobudur, an ancient Javanese temple, for inspiration. These stone carvings reveal a vibrant tapestry of daily life, showing the array of ingredients that fueled an ancient center of learning and spirituality.
Visitors to Muaro Jambi, numbering 8,000 in just a year, have experienced a revival in their culinary journey, featuring ingredients as diverse as root crops, deer, buffalo, fish, and coconut. The community has built a sacred bond with their surroundings by establishing a food forest, determined to protect and celebrate their edible heritage.
However, this relationship with their past was never a given. Transitioning from processed food to celebrating local ingredients marked a significant shift. Initially, the simple meals the villagers provided seemed too humble, leading them to serve instant noodles to temple tourists. As appreciation grew, so did their confidence in the unique character and heritage of their traditional dishes.
Their journey took a transformative turn with the help of Javara, an initiative promoting Indigenous foods across Indonesia. Food anthropologists guided the women of Paduka in rediscovering their culinary roots through forest foraging and ancestral conversations, enabling them to reclaim their food heritage.
Venturing further into this venture, the women adopted locally sourced ingredients endemic to the biodiversity-rich island of Sumatra. Ingredients like Javanese chili, turmeric, and galangal invigorated their culinary creations, inspired by culinary traditions dating back centuries.
The crowning achievement of this cultural renaissance is dishes like rempah ratus belut and the celebrated ikan mudik—freshwater fish harvested in seasonal floods. These are accompanied by bitter yet revered rattan shoots sourced from the Batang Hari River and expertly prepared sauces like arenga vinegar.
Alongside these robust flavors, the community embraced traditional beverages. Gardenia jasminoides leaves, known for their healing properties, transform into soothing daun cepiring tea, paired with jamu, an age-old fruit-and-spice concoction with deep cultural roots.
The full embrace of their forest’s biodiversity guided the Paduka women in reshaping their culinary approach. Equipped with modern tools like plant identification apps, they shared their edible discoveries and their nutritional values with intrigued visitors.
An experiential culinary boot camp in Jakarta saw their ideas tested and tasted. Here, they honed their hospitality skills, crafting a dining experience that celebrated their vibrant heritage. Upon returning to Sumatra, a new chapter began for the women, embracing sustainable sourcing and traditional cooking methods.
Innovative practices ensure the sustainability of their culinary activities. The Paduka community embraces regenerative methods, taking only what they need from the forest and practicing restraint in harvesting, protecting their resources for future generations.
The global standardization of human diets narrows down biodiversity, with majority calories coming from a handful of crops. By revitalizing their diverse food traditions, the Paduka community counters this trend, fostering resilience and a deep connection to their landscapes.
Amidst a modern world obsessed with fast food, traditional culinary practices risk fading away. Yet, in Muaro Jambi, the purposeful revival of culinary wisdom offers more than sustenance—it nurtures a community’s spirit and cultural identity.
From hosting vibrant banquets to intimate picnics and brunches, their offerings reflect this renewed pride in heritage. Visitors willingly pay a premium for the genuine taste of history, empowering the community to grow and shape their own future.
Distinguished food enthusiasts who visited Muaro Jambi recognize the profound impact of reconnecting with an ancient past. Their encounters with authentic dishes like the hundred-spice eel leave an indelible mark, as they witness the flavorful embodiment of a rich, living history.
Games of traditional cooking echo across the temple grounds, where the legacy of ancient culinary arts is alive and celebrated. As explorations continue, the villagers of Muaro Jambi remain dedicated ambassadors of their agrobiodiverse heritage, passionate about sharing their stories with the world.
Leave a Reply